The genuine men's French Marinière Marine Nationale

The true French navy striped shirt

The history of the marinière dates back to the decree of the French Navy in 1858, which precisely defined the sailors' uniform and introduced the striped knitwear. Contrary to popular belief, the stripes were not meant to identify sailors in case of a man overboard situation but were inspired by the tradition of sailors wearing striped jerseys since the era of corsairs and pirates. The stripes also served to distinguish sailors from other branches of the military and differentiate French sailors from foreign sailors.

Before this decree, sailors would go to sea wearing their own clothes, which created a heterogeneous crew. The 1858 decree standardized the appearance of French sailors by prescribing a knitwear with twenty indigo blue stripes on the chest and back, and fourteen stripes on the sleeves, accompanied by white stripes of different widths. The flared collar of the marinière, now known as a boat neck, is also specified.

The marinière was initially designed as a work garment, worn under the jacket during tasks or rest. However, it quickly became a symbol, particularly thanks to early 20th-century photographs that showcased the daily life of French sailors. The marinière is also associated with compulsory military service in France, where each sailor is issued their uniform, including the marinière, marked with their matriculation number. Orcival, based in Lyon since 1940, facilitates the supply of marinières to the French Navy as a supplier.

Over time, the marinière became an essential element of fashion. Coco Chanel contributed to popularizing the marinière during World War I by introducing the "marine style" in her boutique in Deauville. Personalities such as Jean Seberg, Brigitte Bardot, Jean Cocteau, and Pablo Picasso further contributed to the rise of the marinière in the world of fashion.

Today, the marinière has become a timeless symbol of style and elegance, and it continues to be appreciated both for its history and its aesthetic.

The renowned MoMA, Museum of Modern Art, in New York, decided in 2017 to organize an exhibition under the theme "Is fashion modern?" to explore the history and contemporary aspects of fashion. Among the 111 exhibited pieces is the French marinière, considered an iconic item. After conducting research, MoMA identified Orcival as the historical brand associated with this product. The museum contacted Orcival and requested the loan of an old marinière from the French Navy for the duration of the exhibition. Thus, an authentic 1960s marinière from the historical workshop archives of Orcival is displayed. This recognition is a true consecration for the brand.